June 23, 2007

Fremont Street

Every city in America has a main street. Many European cities do, too, but as many of them are round it's sometimes hard to tell which it is. But that's not a problem in Las Vegas. Fremont Street is it. Of course, those who walk The Strip will argue. But visit Fremont Street and you'll be convinced.

Fremont Street

New York has Times Square at Broadway where the neon lights astound visitors. Paris is appropriately nicknamed the City of Lights. But Las Vegas is unique. Nowhere outside Asia can you find such a dazzling array of sights and sounds, with crowds to match.

Housed under a permanent canopy, the casino-lined street has over two million lights and a state-of-the-art sound system. The combined effect is, well, electric. Under the $70 million canopy walk a million visitors a year, if 'walk' is the proper term.

On many nights, it's more like being the ball in a pinball game. Not that it's overcrowded, it's just that you spend so much time trying to take in all the sights, you have to bump shoulders fairly frequently.

Ninety feet above your head there are 12.5 million synchronized LED lights producing millions of color combinations, accompanied by animation and video. One second it may be a TV broadcast, the next an indefinable kaleidoscope that pops your pupils. Among the better known signs is Glitter Gulch's Vegas Vickie, exemplifying everything that is Las Vegas. Kitsch, fun, carefree and silly.

Videos are projected onto the canopy, too. Some last several minutes and run the gamut from 'The Drop', a psychedelic 'happening' ala the '60s, to 'Area 51', showing earthlings in battle with aliens. 'Above and Beyond' gives visitors a view of the Earth from outerspace, while 'Fahrenheit at Night' displays some of what Vegas is best known for: beautiful women.

There are dozens of shops, everything from small indoor venues to free standing kiosks. Many of the offerings are just what you'd expect - little trinkets that will break the first time your child goes to play with it. But there is the odd interesting item here and there. If nothing else you can grab a doughnut at Krispy Kreme and enjoy the sights from the outdoor patio.

The canopy is 1,400 feet (about 1/4 of a mile), so you'll have plenty of opportunity to miss something interesting. Better plan to go twice, at least once when you're sober.

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June 22, 2007

Dining in Las Vegas

Dining Las VegasNot too many years ago, using the word 'dining' in relation to Las Vegas would have elicited laughter from any gourmet. True, you could get a steak for $2, but it was barely edible. The 'all-you-can-eat' buffets for a few dollars were no better. The cheap food was there, as everyone knew, simply to draw in the crowds, who would then spend money gambling.

But Vegas has changed.

There are now almost as many fine restaurants in Las Vegas as there are in New York or Paris. And 'fine' in this case is an understatement. Having long ago attracted some of the world's most notable chefs, Las Vegas has become a true restaurateur's town. Whether you want some good but simple fare at Planet Hollywood, or won't eat anything less than Emeril's finest creations, you'll find something here to satisfy.

Bouchon at the Venetian is a popular attraction for Vegas food lovers. Moderately priced, the food is outstanding in this French bistro setting. With a full bar and private rooms, you can have the kind of atmosphere you want to go along with the fine meal.

For truly 4-star French, though, you'll want to visit Le Cirque in Las Vegas. An import from New York, it has all the outstanding features of that metropolitan delight. The lobster is, as they say, to die for even if your diet allows for no more than a few bits in a salad. The already excellent heirloom tomato soup can be livened up with morel mushrooms to give a distinctive dish.

An intimate setting fleshed out in a circus-themed decor, the atmosphere is hushed, making it the perfect spot for dinner for two. Be sure to dress well, though. Las Vegas casual doesn't cut it in this up-scale establishment.

For the finest seafood in town, Commander's Palace inside the Planet Hollywood Resort is the place to go. Known by its New Orleans roots, of course you can find many cajun and creole offerings. But the atmosphere is fine, too. The cream and black decor accented with gold makes it a visual treat to go with the gustatory.

Items are pricey but worth every penny. The tasso shrimp henican appetizer, for example, could be a meal all its own. For the truly daring, there's turtle soup. For a main course try the pork loin with cayenne catsup and be ready to pig out. Don't forget to try some of the bread pudding dessert, even if you have to split it to make room after the huge meal.

For a great steak try The Tillerman, a Las Vegas specialty for more than 25 years. The fish is equally good, but the menu has enough choices to satisfy the whole family. For the adults, the wine list is superb, offering vintages from California, Spain and even Argentina and South Africa. These last two offer delightful variations on familiar themes.

For another American delight, try Planet Hollywood. Located inside Caesars Palace the now-iconic establishment offers everything from burgers to gourmet pizza to a range of sandwiches. On the lively side, calling the interior 'decor' would do it a disservice. Name it a 'setting' instead. Unique. And don't leave without sampling a Ghirardelli chocolate brownie - a specialty of the house.

For that final meal of the trip you may want to save an evening or at least a lunch to go to Wolfgang Puck's Bar & Grill inside the MGM Grand. Redefining fast food to be something truly special, you'll enjoy the energetic California-style setting. Go for the Maine crab cakes whenever you can.

Whatever your taste in food, Las Vegas now has more than you can enjoy in a single visit. Better plan to come back often.

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June 21, 2007

Las Vegas City of Dreams

Las VegasLas Vegas, City of Dreams made real. Once upon a time there was gambling and top-notch musical entertainment. Now there's that and a whole lot more. Now you can visit Vegas and never want to leave. Many have. Las Vegas was one of the fastest growing cities in the U.S. for over a decade.

Visit one of the Cirque du Soleil performances – Mystere, KA or O – and see some of the finest acrobats in the world. Then be amazed when the show turns out to be so much more than just a circus act. True theater, with music and grand staging to match, these one-of-a-kind extravaganzas are sure to delight anyone.

Enjoy zoos? Come see some interesting twists on an old idea at one of the many Las Vegas venues. There's the White Tiger Habitat at the Mirage. These amazing animals are much more visible than in your average zoo, comfortably housed behind glass walls that make seeing them a unique experience.

Prefer aquariums? Check out the Secret Garden and Dolphin Habitat, also at the Mirage. You can enjoy a drink at the bar while the dolphins swim nearby, and occasionally leap to celebrate your good fortune. Or, check out the Shark Reef at Mandalay Bay. Housed in a million gallon tank, you'll find a dozen species to delight you.

Shopping is now in style in Las Vegas. Everything from exquisite jewelry at Harry Winston's to home decor at Versace, the famed clothing designer. Don't miss out on a half-mile gondola ride at The Venetian, then step out and whip out the plastic. Or, come visit the tri-level Forum Shops at Caesars Palace. You'll be treated like a queen at any of the over 100 shops.

Try a more rough and ready trek at nearby Red Rock Canyon. This desert park is home to Red-Tailed hawks and 8,000 foot peaks. The red sandstone cliffs feature unbeatable views, 30-foot waterfalls and hiking trails to challenge even the most experienced.

Want to see something unusual, educational and awe-inspiring but stay in town? Try The Atomic Testing Museum at the Frank H. Rogers Science and Technology complex. The nearly 50-year history of nuclear weapons testing at nearby Nevada sites is recorded and explained here. With interactive displays, films in the concrete bunker and the most unusual gift shop anywhere visitors will be glad they split the atom.

Visit Fremont Street and see the $70 million dollar 1,400-foot canopy covering an area housing dozens of casinos. With continual projections of video and amazing sound you'll come away dazzled. Offering more neon lights than anywhere outside Hong Kong, it's a must-see.

Then, if you're not totally knocked off your feet yet, try one of the scream-inducing rides at the Stratosphere. At a thousand feet, no one can hear you anyway but the terrified rider next to you. Then feel some real fear by doing the traditional activity at Las Vegas - gambling.

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June 12, 2007

Bellagio Fountains

bellagio-fountains.jpgExperience the most ambitious, commanding water feature ever conceived! Bellagio's world-famous fountains will speak to your heart with opera, classical and whimsical music while flirting with your playful nature through their carefully choreographed movements. You'll be swept away by this breathtaking union of water, music and light.

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June 1, 2007

Basilica de San Francisco El Grande

Basilica de San Francisco El GrandeThe church of San Francisco is one of Madrid's most important buildings and offers a fascinating tour. With a dome larger than that of St. Paul's Cathedral it is an architectural marvel. Filled with paintings and sculpture, it is also an art lover's treat.

Located in an older part of Madrid, the church has an imposing edifice in three sections with neo-classical facades. Inside, visitors can see the imposing 108 foot (33m) dome and the barrel vaulted ceiling. Covered in a dazzling array of frescoes and with extraordinary stained-glass windows, the basilica is one of the most beautiful cathedrals in Europe.

Completed in 1760 under the auspices of Carlos III, the basilica was erected on the site of a Franciscan convent, purportedly founded in 1217 by St. Francis of Assisi. There are seven main doors elaborately carved out of walnut, leading to several chapels filled with art treasures.

Three of them are adjacent to the circular interior, one of which - the San Bernardino de Siena - holds a Goya painting depicting the saint. To the right of that Goya is another painting, a self-portrait of the artist himself.

Though the church was built in the mid-18th century, many of the contents are considerably older like for example, the Gothic choir stalls from Segovia, dating from the 16th century.

Within the chapels are dozens of paintings and sculptures by major and minor masters. Besides Goya, the church houses paintings by Zurbarán, Cano and Maella as well as marble sculptures by Bellver and Benlliure.

The church, though, is not merely an art museum, but a functioning cathedral. Visitors are shown through by a guide and are requested to maintain a respectful silence.

Located in the Plaza de San Francisco el Grande, there is a nearby Metro stop at La Latina or Puerta del Toledo and several buses have stops at or near the church.

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Cirque du Soleil Las Vegas

Cirque du Soleil Las VegasThe astounding Cirque du Soleil is an enormous acrobatic act… and so much more. If you have an image of the old time circus with clowns and acrobats, be prepared for a shock. Cirque du Soleil has this, and much more, but in a form that is wildly different.

With dozens of artists - tumblers, firebreathers, clowns and others - the show has many of the traditional entertainers. But the similarities end there. The difference is immediately visible the moment you see the entertainers. With carefully crafted makeup and costumes, it has to be seen to be appreciated. Deep blue or orange suits with tie-dyed designs, Chinese red capes and kaleidoscope makeup are only the beginning.

The performers are among the best acrobats in the world, gathered from more than a dozen countries. Displaying their talents inside huge arenas that seat over 1,600 they astound audience members with their skill. But that skill is in service of the most unusual, individual and innovative choreography around.

Whether it's the Aerial High Bar act making death-defying leaps that seem as if they truly can fly or the Alexis Brothers with their amazing tumbling the shows never let up for a moment. For 90 minutes at the Mystere Theatre audience is agog with wonder as they watch the show unfold. At the MGM the KA show dazzles the eye. The O performance is as wondrous as its title signifying 'everything'.

Dancers of the Cirque du Soleil are one of the highlights. Combining traditional movements from their native countries with modern twists and turns that surprise at every step, the artists leave you something to remember for a long time afterward.

But the show isn't all just traditional high wire acts, comedy or dancers in new costumes. There is a theme to every show, one that weaves and tangles and then resolves like a complex detective story. You may have to attend several times to unravel all the mystery and awe that's packed into the performance.

Performances can be crowded. Once a novelty, Cirque du Soleil has taken center stage in Las Vegas and became an important part of the whole 'Vegas experience'. Like a lot of shows in Las Vegas, tickets are a bit high but a web search might yield a discount.

Well worth the price, the Cirque du Soleil is an unforgettable theatrical experience. Don't miss seeing it in the Desert City of Lights.

Whether O, KA or Mystere, or any of the several other shows that are brought forth over the months and years, Cirque du Soleil will always leave you guessing what's next.

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Las Vegas Caesars Palace

Las Vegas Caesars PalaceOne of the oldest hotels in Las Vegas still standing, first opened in August 1966, Caesars Palace has never gone out of style. Recently renovated, it is still the Emperor of the city. With all the changes that the famed desert city has seen over the decades, the attractions at Caesars are still first rate.

Everything from its 129,000 square foot casino space in three rooms to the Japanese cuisine at Hyakumi says 'Vegas'. Guests can enjoy one of the regal rooms with their high ceilings and royal bathrooms made of marble with brass fixtures.

Centrally located along The Strip, it's close to all the action that Vegas has to offer. But you don't necessarily have to leave the hotel to be entertained.

Caesars has a long-established reputation for booking top-notch talent, ever since Frank Sinatra performed there in the '60s-'80s. Whether you enjoy Celine Dion or Elton John or any of a dozen other top-drawing acts, Caesars will host them sooner or later. Enjoy fine drinks in the 4,000 square foot Colosseum Theatre while you sit back and watch the show.

If you're hungry there's a lot more than Japanese food on the menu. Nero's is one of the hottest spots in town. But if you want some more recent Italian fare, try Rao's. Recently imported from East Harlem in New York, they've been serving authentic dishes for over 100 years.

Shopping at Caesars isn't a matter of going to an upscale store or two, either. The hotel offers over 240,000 square feet of retail heaven for visitors with unlimited plastic. Over 100 top stores choose to offer their wares here and they do a thriving business. Whether you want a Cartier watch or a Gucci bag, you'll find something to satisfy.

But if sports is more along your line, Caesars can even satisfy that desire. The Neil Leifer Gallery is famed for its collection of sports photographs. With free admission you'll have money left over to buy one of the outstanding photos.

There's a picture of Muhammad Ali standing over Sonny Liston after the fight that made him famous and one of Secretariat winning the Kentucky Derby. There's even one showing JFK with then Vice-President Lyndon Johnson tossing out the first ball of the 1961 baseball season. The photographer's work has been featured on Time, Sports Illustrated and dozens of other well-known publications.

The pool area at Caesars is always one of the most popular gathering spots. With four separate pools the 4.5 acre Garden of the Gods Pool oasis is aptly named. Looking like an authentic Roman spa, there are Roman baths surrounded by columns.

The Qua Spa offers an Artic Ice room and an array of pampering skin treatments in a relaxing atmosphere. With 23,000 square feet of whirlpools, saunas, tanning booths and more, everyone will find something to make those cares melt away.

Come be treated like royalty at Caesars on the Strip.

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Las Vegas Bellagio Hotel

Las Vegas Bellagio HoteHome of the famed Cirque du Soleil show, the Bellagio Hotel has this and much more to offer the Las Vegas guest. Opened in 1998, this luxury hotel is patterned after a Roman extravaganza, but offers everything for the modern traveler.

Sited on the shores of a 10-acre man-made lake, the hotel houses 20 restaurants and cafes, a 65,000 square foot spa and salon and a dozen other attractions.

The famed Bellagio Fountains are just outside. A thousand choreographed sprays blossom into the air in a water ballet that has to be seen and heard to be appreciated. The jets are timed to classical music and Las Vegas visitors will often stand in front of them day or night for an hour and watch the show.

The lobby alone is worth a visit. The ceiling displays 2,000 hand-blown glass flowers each hand-crafted to perfection. The Fiori di Como are multi-colored works of art that form only one astounding part of this city within a city.

Just off to the side are other fascinating things to see, such as the Conservatory and Botanical Gardens. Within its walls are exotic plants from all over the world. Those who have enjoyed the botanical gardens of London or New York won't be disappointed.

The Fine Arts gallery is an option, even for those not staying at the hotel. With dozens of works by Picasso, Monet, van Gogh and other masters, it's small but impressive. Easily the equal of many European art museums, art lovers will find many works to view and enjoy. An audio tour is available.

Unlike some of the hotels, the Bellagio is restricted to those over 18 unless they are guests of the hotel. One reason is the centrality of the large casino within the property. Visitors will pass through it on their way to almost any of the other attractions. Under these orange canopies you can find just about anything in the way of gambling, from $1 slot machines all the way up to $5,000 per hand poker tables.

Not inexpensive by Las Vegas standards, the Bellagio rooms can easily cost $250 a night, though discounts are a possibility during off-days or weeks. But you'll definitely get your money's worth. Whether it's the luxurious Italian provincial-decorated rooms, or the high-end spa, you'll find elegance and pampering are routine here. The spa architecture has an unusual feature to enhance the visitor's experience: walls made of water. The music and general ambiance will melt your stress away.

Even with over 3,400 rooms they offer a high staff-to-guest ratio and your every whim will be catered to quickly. Come visit the Bellagio and find out for yourself.

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Montreal St. Joseph's Oratory

st joseph oratorySt. Joseph's Oratory, a large Catholic church atop Mont Royal in Montreal, is one of the most unusual religious structures in existence. It is so, not only because of the design, but owing to its history, as well.

A work of devotion by Brother Andre, a lay brother in the Holy Cross order, the present church wasn't even completed until 30 years after his death. The church was begun in 1924, but only finished in 1967. It began first as a small structure he helped create near the beginning of the 20th century. Starting as a tiny wooden chapel, funds were eventually furnished to build the basilica.

Brother Andre's unusual character is the reason.

Pilgrims from far and wide would come to his chapel because of a myth that claimed he could heal the crippled. Many would (and sometimes still do) climb the 300 stone steps on their knees to make their way up to be healed. Part of the present church contains hundreds of crutches from those who allegedly found a cure there. But what is unquestionably real is the impressive structure that houses them.

The copper dome forming the room is almost 100 meters high, the second largest in the world after St. Peter's in Rome. Set atop an otherwise plain and simple looking building, it can be seen from a great distance. From it one can also see a great distance, as visitors on Mont Royal will have a spectacular view of Montreal below.

The interior is large enough to accommodate 10,000 worshipers, more than twice as many as the Basilica de Notre-Dame elsewhere in the city. Though not so ornate inside (or outside) as that Gothic Revival rival, St. Joseph's has many features that can be found nowhere else.

One of the oddest is the preserved heart of Brother Andre, stored in a case upstairs inside the church. More than 2 million visitors per year gaze upon it. Nearby are many plain, but elegant wooden statues of the apostles, and above is an impressive set of stained glass windows. A white marble statue of St. Joseph is in the main altar.

On special occasions the church's great organ and 52 bell chimes will sound out, as thousands of votive candles light the interior. A fitting display for one of the world's most interesting shrines.

St. Joseph's is located at 3800 Queen Mary Road. Just take the train to Côte-des-Neiges and walk, don't crawl, up the hill.

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Montreal Biodome

Montreal BiodomeThe Montreal Biodome is one of the most unusual tourist attractions in the world. Originally built in 1976 to house Olympic Games events, it has evolved into a showcase of ecosystems as they might be. The Biodome holds four such areas, representing different ecosystems of the Americas.

The Tropical Forest

In the tropical forest section visitors can walk through a replica of a South American rainforest. Here one can find hundreds of plant species as they exist in those dense jungles. Macaws and marmosets play among the trees, as you sweat out the high humidity. Tamarins laugh at you while you feel as if you're in the real thing.

The Laurentian Forest

A replica of a North American wilderness, this section holds dozens of trees, brush and other flora from the area. Here you can see how the changes in Fall affect the more than 200 species of animals amid 4,000 trees and plants. Come see the changing colors in Autumn, then visit in the Spring to observe all the new growth and activity.

The Saint Lawrence Marine Ecosystem

Modeled on the Gulf of Saint Lawrence, walking through this area provides an encapsulated view of the terrain of which Montreal itself is a part. The cool breeze is just what you would expect when looking out over the river, and the plants are all authentic and appropriate.

Polar Areas

Representing both the north Arctic and the south Antarctic areas, the Polar ecosystem shows lifelike displays of the conditions at those extreme points of the planet. Polar World contains puffins and penguins gathered from zoos all over the world.

All the sections are maintained at the proper temperature and humidity to suit the individual ecosystem they model. Since the exhibits feature living species, they are ever-changing. Come back two years later and you'll see quite a different view.

In every case, the tours are self-guided but there are lots of sources of information to add to the visitor's enjoyment. An inexpensive audio guide is available that will fill you in on all the nooks and crannies that form each of the unique systems. Discussions of flora and fauna (plants and animals) really bring the place to life.

There are knowledgeable staff throughout the facility who can answer any questions the sights or guide might bring to mind. At the Info-Ecosphere desk, friendly staff are pleased to hand out literature, provide information about the ecosystems within and chat about what you've seen. Staff are easily recognizable by the pith helmets they wear.

Supplies and gifts are available at the shop. After the visit, enjoy the restaurant or cafeteria while the kids play in the Naturalia game room.

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